A compact barrel shape, pale color, and broadly ribbed leaf stalks with crinkled leaves characterize this vegetable. It comes in two styles: long and narrow (12-18 inches long x 3-4 inches in diameter) or short and stout (up to 12 inches long and more than 5 inches in diameter).

Select heavy, compact heads with whole leaves. Both styles taste the same. Those from Tientsin are considered the best; those slightly wilted are considered sweeter; white heads and leaves are more tender than green.